The real problem is that some buyers put a high price on the package, saying that it increases the item’s value up to 40 percent (or more.) Other collectors, such as I, only consider it a 5-10 percent increase in value. A common solution is to buy two copies of each model, one to take out of the package for display and handling, and the other to leave in the package for investment and potential resale. With inexpensive models, it’s the best compromise. More expensive models usually don’t have this problem, since they are usually packaged in a container you can open, allowing you to remove the contents and keep the container intact for re-use when putting the contents back in for storage or eventual sale.

SELLING YOUR COLLECTION 
You will usually earn the most money from selling your collection piece by piece. An alternative, assuming you have enough to warrant one, is to sell them at auction. Check your local yellow pages under “auctioneers.” Avoid small-time estate auctioneers. They usually sell at a loss to the seller. Seek out large professional auction houses specializing in antiques and collectibles. They more effectively publicize your auction, attract more participants and result in fairer prices. You may also auction them on the internet on Ebay, Yahoo, Amazon, or any one of the growing number of other internet auction sites. 

While collectors will sometimes pay top book value for certain mint models, they usually have access to the same models for as low as 50 percent of book value. If you sell your collection as a whole, you will likely need to sell to a dealer who intends to resell. Most collectors are unwilling to purchase a collection that would duplicate models already in their collection unless they can buy the collection at a bargain price. So if you want the highest prices on your models, you will have to sell them one at a time or in small lots.

THE LIST
Whether selling an entire collection, grouping models in lots or selling individual models, you will need to produce a list, especially if selling through the mail. This list should include manufacturer or brand name, model number if applicable, model name, color and markings, and condition including notable flaws. Organize your list alphabetically or numerically, or by lots, and indicate price desired for each item, keeping in mind that thing called bargaining. This list will be necessary for potential buyers to know exactly what they would be getting for their money without actually seeing the items for sale.

ADDING MODELS TO YOUR COLLECTION
While you may pay highest price for models you really must have, often far lower prices can be achieved by buying from a dealer who is closing out his inventory, or a collector who has become disinterested in keeping his collection... often a collection from childhood that has been stored away for years. Also, low prices can be found when a dealer has latched onto a collection for pennies on the dollar and is willing to pass the savings on to you.

WHERE TO FIND BUYERS AND SELLERS
There are many sources for finding buyers and sellers, One of the best sources is Toy Shop magazine, a bi-weekly classified magazine. For a subscription or a complimentary issue, write to Toy Shop, 700 E. State St., Iola WI 54990, or call 1-800-258-0929. Have Visa or MasterCard number ready. You may also visit www.toynutz.com/sources.html for an extensive list of resources.

“POPPING THE BUBBLES”
The problem with price guides is that they provide prices. The problem with producing a collectors guide that doesn’t include prices is that essentially nobody will buy it. Collectors, for better or worse, are always interested in what something’s worth. But when they see in Tomart’s Price Guide To Hot Wheels that a #6467 Olds 4-4-2 is worth $150, ($350 in blisterpack,) they start thinking they will automatically sell it for that price. Well sometimes you can, but not usually. (See “Selling Your Collection.”) It is therefore important to remember the words at the beginning of every price guide: “Values indicated are intended only as a guide.” So, the obvious question is “What good is a price guide if I can’t sell something for the price listed." The simplest answer is “for insurance purposes.” Receiving insurance reimbursement for your collection would necessitate that you had inventoried and documented your entire collection and filed a copy of this document with your insurance agent prior to an unfortunate calamity. (This is not to imply you should commit an unfortunate calamity.)

There are many less drastic ways to profit from the sale of your toys. (See “Where To Find Buyers And Sellers.”) One final note to collectors: Collect only what you enjoy and appreciate, because if you can’t sell it, you’re stuck with it. Good Luck.