Photo Tour of Bend & Central Oregon

Begun in 1904 as Farewell Bend, the logging settlement was named for a point in the Deschutes River shallow enough for pioneers heading north along the river to finally cross with their wagons, horses and livestock. Pioneer Park, at the intersection of Portland Avenue and Hill Street, now marks the location of that crossing.
Above: The Portland Avenue Bridge provides the modern crossing of the Deschutes River just upstream from Pioneer Park.
October 12th, 2008

Above: Now referred to as The Old Mill District, all that remains of the Brooks-Scanlon logging mill are these three smokestacks and the brick building below them, now converted into and surrounded by retail space dubbed The Shops at the Old Mill. This view is from the west side of Pilot Butte.
January 9th, 2009

Citing that the city name "Farewell Bend" was too long, postal officials urged its shortening to Bend when it was incorporated in 1905.

Above: Even into the 1980s, this stretch of U.S. Highway 20 east of Pilot Butte traversed empty fields of sagebrush and junipers. Now it has been developed into a major business corridor on the east side of Bend, Oregon.
January 2nd, 2009

Bend is situated along the Deschutes River between the spectacular Cascades Mountain Range to the west and the rugged Central Oregon High Desert to the east. 160 miles southeast of Portland, and 130 miles east of the state capital of Salem, Bend serves as a launching point into a scenic wonderland of outdoor adventure for athletes, hikers, sportsmen, explorers ...and photographers.

To celebrate this remarkable locale that I've called home since 1985, I've assembled this geographical/historical photo tour to showcase the beauty, appeal, heritage and uniqueness of Bend and Central Oregon.

Pilot Butte

Above: Pilot Butte stands as the most prominent city landmark, whether by air or by ground. The
500-foot hill is a dormant volcanic cinder cone, seen here from near the summit of Coyote Butte about five miles south as the crow flies.

Below: A closer view of Pilot Butte, from Juniper Park, shows its red cinder composition and the 1-mile-long road that spirals around to its summit. The paved summit drive is open to cars in the Summer and Fall as weather permits, and is available to energetic hikers year-round. Longer, heavier vehicles such as RVs and trailers are prohibited from driving the steep, narrow road. With its tight curves and no guard rails, the 15-mile-per-hour speed limit is plenty fast enough, especially on the way back down the grade.

Downtown Bend, Oregon
Since Bend's founding in 1905, the downtown area has gone through a number or incarnations and upgrades, while the old Brooks-Scanlon mill district has been transformed into an upscale shopping center. Just in the last ten years, many aging buildings have been replaced by ultra-modern structures that still manage to reflect the former mill town's industrious past.

Left and below: One of the newest buildings in downtown Bend is Franklin Crossing, on the corner of Bond Street and Franklin Avenue, sporting retail shops, an athletic club and offices.

As Bond Street continues north, it connects with Hill Street, named after James J. Hill, one of two railroad barons (E.H. Harriman is the other) who built tracks connecting Shevlin-Hixon and Brooks-Scanlon mills to the logging industry of Bend's historic past.

Right: Originally built in 1916 as the First Norwegian Lutheran Church, Grace First Lutheran Church on Idaho Avenue has since been renovated and, more recently, purchased by Trinity Episcopal Church across the street. Read more history of this unusual structure by following this link.

Below: The First Baptist Church has also gone through numerous renovations since first being built on Oregon Street in downtown Bend.

Right: The new St. Claire Place replaces the old Masterson-St. Claire Hardware Store on the corner of Bond Street and Minnesota Avenue.

Left: A new apartment complex, still under construction in this shot from January 2nd, 2009, is seen east of the new St. Claire Place, adjoining the almost-as-new parking garage.

Above and right: Reid School was Bend's first "Modern School," named for its first principal, Miss Ruth Reid, (Mrs. H. J. Overturf) opened in this building on September 16th, 1914. (Overturf Butte, on Bend's west side, is similarly assigned the family name.)

Overlooking downtown Bend, the three-story school held opening exercises as Europe plunged into World War I. Visitors acclaimed the building, to be known for half a century as the Reid School, for its lighting, its architecture, and its spacious classrooms. It now houses the Des Chutes Historical Museum.
(Source: National Register of Historic Places and the Des Chutes Historical Society)

Tower Theater Left: No photo tour of Bend is complete without a picture of the historic Tower Theater. Situated on Bond Street in the heart of downtown Bend, the restored movie theater now serves as a cultural center for stage and screen performances.

Below: Stylish brass handles accent coral pink doors that invite patrons inside the Tower Theater.

Old Mill District
In its logging heyday, the Old Mill District was home to Shevlin-Hixon and Brooks-Scanlon mills. Now it has been transformed into a combination of upscale shopping center (The Shops At the Old Mill), entertainment venue (Les Schwab Amphitheater), and a wildlife preserve. Protected riparian strips along both banks of the Deschutes River provide a natural habitat for waterfowl and other wildlife.

Left: Three towering smokestack, remnants of the old Brooks-Scanlon mill, serve as a prominent landmark to direct shoppers to the new retail district on Bend's southwest side.

Above: The American River Otter (Lontra canadensis, formerly Lutra canadensis), is also known as the Northern River Otter or the Common Otter. This one startled a Great Blue Heron as the otter surfaced near the pedestrian bridge that crosses the Deschutes River in the heart of the Old Mill District on January 4th, 2009.

Above: A Great Blue Heron (Ardea herodias) regains its composure after being startled by a river otter that surfaced within inches of the big bird. Riparian conservation efforts have resulted in restoring habitat so that wildlife like herons and otters thrive in the midst of passing joggers, shoppers and concert-goers.

The Deschutes River

Above: Autumn on the Deschutes River is crisp and colorful.
October 18th, 2008

Above: Benham Falls is a whitewater maelstrom as the Deschutes passes through a narrow gap between two ancient lava flows.
August 20th, 2008

Above: The Deschutes levels out at the bottom of Lava Island Falls.
July 27th, 2008

Above: Downstream from Bend, the Deschutes flows through pastures and wilderness. This section of the river is just north of Tumalo, Oregon.
March 7th, 2009

Named by early French fur traders as "Riviere des Chutes" or "Riviere aux Chutes," the name is French for "River of the Falls." The waterfalls it referred to were the Celilo Falls on the Columbia River, near where the Deschutes flowed into it. Ironically, these falls no longer exist, having been submerged by the lake behind The Dalles Dam. There are still many falls and rapids along the Deschutes despite several dams built on it to capture hydroelectric power and control flooding and irrigation.

Above: Most hikers are oblivious to this hydroelectric plant that generates 5.5 megawatts of power about a half mile upstream from Farewell Bend Park. A small part of the river is diverted through a pre-existing irrigation canal 1.25 miles upstream and flows underground for a 135 foot drop to the turbines. Constructed for minimal visual and environmental impact, the installation is housed underground and landscaped with native trees and plants.
February 20th, 2009

Upstream from Benham Falls, the river is framed by manzanita and lodgepole pines.
August 30th, 2008

Where the river is narrow, the water flows fast in this photo about 2 miles upstream from Farewell Bend Park.
February 20th, 2009

First Street Rapids
Above: This urban whitewater wonderland exists just a few blocks from downtown Bend, yet a large number of residents have never heard of it. First Street Rapids is so named for the street at the end of which the rapids are found. Primary access is via First Street Rapids Park, a city park situated at the north end of Northwest First Street.

To get there, take Portland Avenue west across Hill Street, cross the bridge between Pioneer and Pacific Parks, and drive two blocks. Turn right onto First Street and drive three blocks north to the dead end. Three parking spaces are available to the right of the park's main service gate. Alternate parking is along the street leading to the park. A section of the Deschutes River Trail begins where the street ends, and continues north about a half-mile downstream to Mount Washington Drive. The trail continues down the hill and across the eastern edge of the golf course to Sawyer State Park and beyond.

Access to the east bank of First Street Rapids is at the west end of Revere Avenue. A short jog left then right leads to a dead-end unpaved road down a short but steep grade to a dead-end. (Watch out for potholes!) There is no designated parking area except along each side of the narrow street. Steep stone steps lead down a basalt retaining wall to the river's edge and a small picnic area.

The majority of birds pictured on my Birds of Bend web page were photographed along this stretch of river trail.

Left: An American Mink (Neovison vison) waits until the coast is clear along the east bank of the Deschutes River at First Street Rapids.
March 30th, 2009

Over a hundred years ago, fur trappers came to Oregon and the Pacific Northwest for mink, otter and beaver pelts. The result was the inevitable decimation of the species. Despite such plundering, they still thrive, albeit in much smaller numbers.

The Central Oregon Cascades
The mighty Cascade mountain range was formed thousands of years ago when volcanic activity was much more prevalent than it is today. A hundred miles to the north, Mt. St. Helens still steams. Cutting Oregon from north to south, the Cascades serve as a moisture barrier, keeping the bulk of the Willamette valley's precipitation from reaching Eastern Oregon, rendering it semi-arid high desert.

Above: On a clear day, you can see "forever"... Several prominent peaks in the Central Oregon Cascades can be seen to the west from the Bend Parkway as it passes over Colorado Boulevard. From left to right are Mount Bachelor, Tumalo Butte, Ball Butte, Broken Top, Charity and Hope (South and Middle Sisters). Faith (North Sister) is just off the right side of the frame.

Above: From the main lodge parking lot of Mount Bachelor Ski Resort, the 9000 foot summit looms large on a sunny Saturday.
January 31st, 2009

Right: The Snowblast Tubing Park at Mount Bachelor is a popular attraction for kids of all ages.

Above: From the western flanks of Pilot Butte, Mount Bachelor and neighboring Tumalo Butte are visible 20 miles west of the city of Bend.
February 18th, 2009

Above: The last of the winter snows linger well into summer on the summit of Mount Bachelor in this photo from Century Drive about a mile east of the base.
July 13th, 2007

Above: The same view as above in mid-winter shows a little less green and a lot more snow.
January 31st, 2009

Above: This photo of Broken Top graphically shows the result of an ancient eruption that blew the lid off this now-dormant volcano. Glacial action has further eroded the mountain into its present shape.
July 13th, 2007

Above: Black Butte (above left, elev. 6,436 ft.), about 7 miles northwest of Sisters, flanks Mount Jefferson (above right, elev. 10,497 ft.) some 20 miles further to the north northwest. This photo was taken from Tumalo Reservoir plains between Bend and Sisters off Sisemore Road.
November 16th, 2008

Above: In 1920, a wagon road (now known as Century Drive / Cascade Lakes Highway) was built between Bend and Elk Lake, and tourism around the scenic waterfront boomed. Elk Lake Lodge opened its doors to visitors, lots for summer homes were leased, and there was even a post-office. By 1929, a building was constructed to serve as the base for a forest guard who would help protect the resources of the National Forest and serve visitors. In 1997, the building was restored and became an official historic sight and an information center along the Cascade Lakes Scenic Byway. The new lodge has since survived two major forest fires, in 1998 and again in 2006. (Source: www.visitbend.com)

Above: This unusual view of Mount Hood, nearly 100 miles north of Bend, was taken from the east side of Pilot Butte. A warm air inversion layer across Mount Hood's base reflects an upside-down image of a portion of the mountain.
January 9th, 2009

Above: Three Fingered Jack stands in the Cascades between Mount Washington to the south and Mount Jefferson to the north. The peak was named in honor of the late Jack Lemma, a butcher by trade. Need I say more? A saloon in Winthrop, Washington, also bears his name.
Visit www.3fingeredjacks.com for details.

Tumalo Falls, Creek and Canyon
About 7 miles west of Bend, Skyliner Road curves and descends into the Tumalo Creek Canyon, a broad U-shaped valley bound by steep ridges and towering rimrock.

Above: Spectacular scenery abounds in the Tumalo Creek Canyon. The few remaining stands of burnt lodgepole pines serve as a reminder of the devastating Bridge Creek Fire of 1980 that scorched the entire valley. Since then, replanting of millions of pine trees has reforested much of the area, while snowbrush and manzanita have filled in the gaps.

Right: The crystalline cold waters of Tumalo Creek flow east from winter snow melt and glaciers in the Cascades.

Above: A male Spotted Sandpiper (Actitus macularia) plays the decoy game along the shore of Tumalo Creek, luring potential predators (and this photographer) away from his hidden nest. After the female Spotted Sandpiper mates with the male and lays her eggs, she abandons the nest to look for another partner, leaving the male to incubate the eggs and take care of the brood.

At the end of Skyliner Road, the pavement ends with a right turn across a narrow bridge, and a left turn west another three miles to Tumalo Falls (below).

The Central Oregon High Desert
The Cascades block prevailing winds from carrying moist Pacific Ocean air into Eastern Oregon, creating a semi-arid desert climate with an average 300 days a year of sunshine.

Above: Basalt outcrops are common in the rugged terrain of the Central Oregon High Desert. This one is on the road to Skeleton Cave off China Hat Road about 15 miles southeast of Bend. Such outcrops, as well as all the caves in the area were formed from ancient lava flows dating back to the Pleistocene epoch. Due to rampant vandalism and littering, most Central Oregon caves have been barricaded and are now accessible only with a permit and guide from the U. S. Forest Service.

Above: Bessie Butte (seen here from the top of Cabin Butte) is one of many volcanic cinder cones in the High Desert. It features the 3/4 mile Bessie Butte Summit hiking trail that starts at Forest Road 1810 (off China Hat Road, USFS 18) and spirals around the north side to the summit (elevation 4,810') about 500 feet above the surrounding forest.

Above: Looking northwest from the Bessie Butte Summit Trail, you can see the destruction caused by the 2003 "18" fire. In July 2003, the 18 Fire, so named for Forest Road 18 (China Hat Road) which the fire intersected, burned approximately 3,810 acres on the Bend-Fort Rock Ranger District of the Deschutes National Forest. The 18 Fire Recovery Project area is located approximately 3.5 miles southeast of the city of Bend, Oregon, and ranges in elevation from 4,200 to 5,120 feet. Source: www.fs.fed.us/r6/centraloregon/projects/units/bendrock/18fire/18-fire-rod.shtml

Above: Horse Butte, off Forest Road 1815 on the southeast corner of Bend, used to be considerably broader at its base. The red cinders were mined from its east face to spread on icy roads for improved winter traction. Since the late 1990s, mining of the butte has ceased, and reclamation is well under way. Prior to being closed off to motor vehicles, the cinder pit was a popular spot for dirt bikes, as evidenced by the vertical tracks up the side of the hill.

Above: Another view of Horse Butte shows the lone Ponderosa at its summit. (Detail view at right.) As the prominent feature at the top of the butte, the old growth pine has survived numerous lightning strikes, which accounts for its ravaged appearance.

The main trail to Horse Butte summit is a steep and rugged one up its west side. About 150 feet up, the trail circles a caldera which contains a miniature forest of ponderosa, lodgepole pine and junipers. From the rim, the view to the west (above) gives you a sprawling view across miles of pine forest to the Cascades.

Above: Coyote Butte is another one of those ancient volcanoes that, until recently, served as a site for cinder mining. A rugged road winds from the left side of the excavation, around its west side and to the summit. To provide a sense of scale, the small black spot at its base (indicated by red arrow) is a Chevy Suburban.

Smith Rock State Park

Above: 25 miles north of Bend, and five miles east of Terrebonne, Oregon, Smith Rock stands as the basalt core remnant of an ancient volcano, towering 550 feet over the Crooked River which twists and turns around its base on its way from the Ochoco (OH-chuh-ko) Mountains east of Prineville to its confluence with the Deschutes and Metolius Rivers about fifteen miles to the northwest. Smith Rock State Park is world-renowned by rock climbers as a world-class destination for testing the physical limits of human agility and endurance.

Right and below: For the slightly less daring, Smith Rock State Rock offers spectacular vistas like these along its numerous hiking trails.
	Left: A hidden path to a secret grotto leads adventurous hikers to these picturesque falls in the scrub brush beneath one of Smith Rock's scenic bluffs.

Above: Soaring stone spires give way to juniper, sagebrush and ranch land on Smith Rock's west side.

UNDER CONSTRUCTION - - MORE TO COME

Historical and Geographical Resources: Wikipedia and others

	Bend's First Lutheran Church - History and Architecture
	Bessie Butte: After the Fire
	Bull Elk Encounter on the Deschutes River
	Birds of Bend and Central Oregon
	Golden-Mantled Ground Squirrel
	Nature of Bend and Central Oregon
	Rockchucks/Yellow-bellied Marmots/Whistle Pigs